Crochet Barbie Doll Clothes – Free Patterns for Shell Stitch Dress, Top & Skirt

Crochet cute clothes for Barbie with these quick and easy free patterns that fit modern Barbie & other 11.5 inch dolls too.

Can’t crochet? I also have free Barbie clothes knitting patterns.

What you Need

• 3mm crochet hook with 4ply or sport weight yarn, or a 2.5mm hook with dk yarn
• 42m of yarn approx for the full length dress, or just a little for a crop top or mini skirt.
  I used Drops Baby Merino (sport weight)
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

I used Drops Baby Merino (sport weight) with a 3mm hook for all outfits shown except the cream crop top which I made using Rico Baby Classic DK (acrylic) with a 2.5mm hook.

Finished dress measurements: 12.5 cm (5 in) long approx (adjustable) & slightly over 5 cm (2 in) across waist (front)

Tension/gauge: since doll’s clothes are so small, the best way to judge the size is to crochet the 1st 4 rounds to make a mini crop top first and try it on the doll.

Abbreviations

NB this pattern uses US crochet terms. The equivalent UK crochet stitches are listed in the abbreviation list to help you convert the pattern.

• R – round
• yoh – yarn over/around hook
• st – stitch(es)
• ch – chain
• sl st – slip stitch
• sk – skip (don’t work in stitch)
• () x – repeat instructions between () x times
• sc – single crochet stitch (UK: double crochet)
• dc – double crochet stitch (UK: treble crochet)
  yoh, hook into st & pull loop through, (yoh & pull through 2 loops on hook) x 2 times
• sc mid shell (UK: dc mid shell)
  Do a single crochet in the central 3rd dc of a 5 dc shell shape (the top of the shell). So you skip 2 dc, sc in the next dc & skip the last 2 dc. (UK: do a double crochet in 3rd treble of 5 treble shell)

Shell Stitch Explained

These clothes are crocheted in the round using closed shell stitch which makes a wavy scalloped edge instead of straight. Shell stitch can look complicated written out in a pattern but it’s just shell shapes, made with 5 dc, separated by a sc.

All you need to do is alternate between doing a sc in the middle dc of each shell (the top of the curve) and making a 5 dc shell in each sc between the shells.

• Even rounds start with ch 1 & a sc, ending with a sl st in that sc.
• Odd rounds start with ch 3 & 2 dc to make a half shell, and ends with 2dc & sl st in the 3rd ch to complete that shell.

Colour Options

• Use 1 colour throughout for a pretty textured fabric to keep things simple.
• Or change colour after every round to create cute colour combos & give Barbie endless different looks.

To switch colour neatly, use the new colour to make the slip stitch at the end of the round in the old colour. So put your hook into the stitch you want to slip stitch to, drop the old yarn colour and pull through a loop of the new colour. Then start the next round as usual in the new colour.

TIP: Don’t cut your yarn after switching colour. Just carry it up the back on the inside where nobody will ever see it!

Alternating between 2 colours gives an interesting sort of harlequin effect (see photo below), and using 3 colours can look really pretty. Or crochet every round in a different colour for a rainbow dress!

Use black & white for a striking monochrome look, pastel shades for a cute summer vibe, or different shades of the same colour for a modern ombre effect. Crochet countless cute outfits from just 1 pattern.

Shell Stitch Dress & Top Pattern

Crochet in the round from the top down. Stop after 4-5 rounds for a crop top, 8 rounds for a t-shirt or 14+ rounds for a dress. Crochet a whole wardrobe for Barbie in no time!

Neck

Ch 36 and sl st to 1st chain to form a ring. The start of the round is at the centre back of the garment.

R1: Ch 3 & do 2 dc in the same spot. This is your first half shell.
Sk 2 ch, (sc, sk 2 ch, 5 dc in ch, sk 2 ch) x 5 times. This makes 5 more shells.
Finally, do 2 dc beside your starting 3 ch, and sl st in the 3rd ch (top) to end the round with a half shell. [6 shells]

R2: Ch 1 & sc in same spot, sk 2 dc and do 5 dc in the next sc to make a shell.
(Sc mid shell, 5 dc in sc) x 5 times, to make 5 more shells.
Finally, sl st in the 1st sc you started the round with.

You now have 2 shells at the front and back and a shell at each side for the shoulders.

Armholes

R3: Ch 3 & do 2 dc in the same spot. Sc mid shell.
Make armhole 1: 2 dc in next sc, ch 1, sk next shell, 2 dc in next sc.
Sc mid shell, 5 dc in sc, sc mid shell.
Make armhole 2: 2 dc in next sc, ch 1, sk next shell, 2 dc in next sc.
Sc mid shell, 2 dc beside starting ch 3 & sl st in top of 3rd ch to finish round. [4 shells]

You have made 2 armholes with shells as sleeve caps & now only have 4 shell shapes: 2 for the front and 2 for the back.

Rest of Top

R4: Ch 1 & sc in same spot. 5 dc in next sc.
Sk 2 dc, sc in ch added at armhole, sk 2 dc.
5 dc in sc, sc mid shell, 5 dc in sc.
Sk 2 dc, sc in ch added at armhole, sk 2 dc.
5 dc in sc, sl st in 1st sc at start of round.

Fasten off after round 4 for a very short crop top.

R5-8 are just even rounds of shell stitch pattern, alternating between doing a sc in the middle dc of each shell & 5 dc in each sc between shells. Full written instructions follow if you prefer:

R5, 7, 11 & 13: Ch 3 & do 2 dc in the same spot.
(Sc mid shell, 5 dc in sc) x 3 times or until reach last shell.
Sc mid shell. 2 dc beside starting ch 3 & sl st in top of 3rd ch to finish round.

Fasten off after round 5 for a crop top.

R6, 8, 12 & 14: Ch 1 & sc in same spot.
(5 dc in next sc, sc mid shell) x 3 times or until after last shell.
5 dc in sc, sl st in 1st sc you started the round with.

Fasten off after round 8 for a full length top.

Back Increases for Skirt

On the next round, do (sc, ch 1, sc) instead of the usual sc mid shell at the 2 back shells. This lets you add extra shells there in the following round.

R9: Ch 3 & do 2 dc in the same spot.
Sk 2 dc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next dc to prep for adding an extra shell here next round, sk 2 dc.
(5 dc in sc, sc mid shell) x 2 times.
5 dc in sc, sk 2 dc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next dc to prep for adding an extra shell here next round.
Make 2 dc beside starting ch 3 & sl st in top of 3rd ch to finish round.

R10: Ch 1 & sc in same spot.
5 dc in sc, sc in ch, 5 dc in sc to make 2 shells here instead of 1 (back increase 1 done).
Shell stitch as usual until you get to the other (sc, ch 1, sc) near the end:
(Sc mid shell, 5 dc in sc) x 2 times. Sc mid shell.
5 dc in sc, sc in ch, 5 dc in sc to make 2 shells instead of the usual 1 (back increase 2 done).
Sl st in 1st sc you started the round with. [6 shells]

You have increased from 4 shells to 6: you still have 2 shells across the front, but now 4 for the back and sides.

R11-14 are just even rounds of shell pattern again. See R5 & R6 instructions above.

Fasten off after round 12 or 14 for a mini dress.

Side Increases for Skirt

Do (sc, ch 1, sc) instead of the usual sc mid shell at the 2 side shells, so you can add an extra shell at each side in the following round.

R15: Ch 3 & do 2 dc in the same spot. Sc mid shell, 5 dc in sc.
Prep for increase in side shell: sk 2 dc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in dc, sk 2 dc.
(5 dc in sc, sc mid shell) x 2 times, 5 dc in sc.
Prep for increase in other side shell: sk 2 dc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in dc, sk 2 dc.
5 dc in sc, sc mid shell. Make 2 dc beside starting ch 3 & sl st in top of 3rd ch to finish round.

R16: Ch 1 & sc in same spot. 5 dc in sc, sc mid shell.
5 dc in sc, sc in ch, 5 dc in sc to make 2 shells here instead of 1 (side 1 increase done).
Now continue as usual until you get to the (sc, ch 1, sc) at the other side:
(Sc mid shell, 5 dc in sc) x 2 times. Sc mid shell.
5 dc in sc, sc in ch, 5 dc in sc to make 2 shells of 1 (side 2 increase 2 done).
Sc mid shell, 5 dc in sc. Sl st in 1st sc you started the round with. [8 shells]

Fasten off for the standard length dress (5 inches) or crochet more rounds for a longer dress. Just repeat R5 & R6 instructions until your dress is the desired length.

Neckline Edging (Optional)

I like the curved neckline the start of the shell pattern gives, but if you would prefer a more finished edge, simply slip stitch around the neck with either the same yarn or a different colour as follows:

1. If you look closely, you will see the bottom loops of the starting chains around the top of the neck. At the centre back of the top, pull yarn through one of these loops with your hook.
2. Make a slip stitch to the next chain loop, and continue around, making a slip stitch in every loop until you get back to where you started at the centre back.

Some of the chain loops are hard to see:

• If you want to keep the wide neckline, count them before you start and you should have close to 36. You don’t have to be exact here.
• If you would like a tighter round neck, skip some of the chain loops. I only did 20 slip stitches on the orange dress shown, so it has a much smaller neck. Note this firm neck is harder to get on & off, so you may need to put the dress or top on over the doll’s head, instead of simply stepping into it feet first and pulling it up.
• Don’t stress about exactly where to put your hook. Just work into the next space that feels natural & review the neckline shape and look as you go. It’s easy to undo a couple of stitches & change the placement if needed.

The good thing about adding the neck edging at the end is that you can remove it at any stage if you preferred the original look, or find it too fiddly putting on if you made the neck tighter.

It’s easiest to undo right away before weaving in ends of course, but otherwise, just snip through any slip stitch and you can unravel it from there – poking here and there with a tapestry needle helps.

Shell Stitch Skirt Pattern

The skirt pattern follows the same instructions as the skirt part of the dress pattern. It just starts differently:

Ch 24 and sl st to 1st chain to form a ring. The start of the round is at the centre back of the skirt.

R1 & 2: Ch 1, sc in each ch or st, sl st in 1st sc to end the round. [24 st]

R3: Ch 3 & do 2 dc in the same spot. This is your first half shell.
Sk 2 sc, (sc, sk 2 sc, 5 dc in sc, sk 2 sc) x 3 times. This makes 3 more shells.
Finally, do 2 dc beside your starting 3 ch, and sl st in the 3rd ch (top) to end the round with a half shell. [4 shells]

R4: Ch 1 & sc in same spot, sk 2 dc and do 5 dc in the next sc to make a shell.
(Sc mid shell, 5 dc in sc) x 3 times, to make 3 more shells.
Finally, sl st in the 1st sc you started the round with. [4 shells]

Now follow the dress pattern from the heading “Back Increases for Skirt” onwards, starting at R9.
Stop after R12 or R14 of the dress pattern for a mini skirt (that’s R8 or R10 of the skirt), or R16 for a longer skirt above the knee (that’s R12 of the skirt).

Finishing

Weave in all yarn ends using a tapestry needle. There’s no need to block the clothes. They should look & fit well straight off the hook! 🙂

But if you do wash them, just lay them to dry without pinning open the shell pattern to block it out. Otherwise the clothes may end up too big and more gaps in the shell pattern might make Barbie blush. 😉

I hope you enjoy crocheting cute clothes for Barbie and find my patterns easy to follow.
Got any questions or feedback? Please leave a comment below.

This 11.5 inch doll clothes crochet pattern is for personal, non-commercial use only. It may not be copied, sold, translated or distributed in any way, nor any finished items made using it sold, without permission. While it’s also designed to fit Barbie dolls, it’s not associated with Mattel in any way – I’m just a big Barbie fan. 😊