Crochet a cute zig zag patterned dress, top and skirt for Barbie with this free pattern that fits all 11.5 inch fashion dolls.
Can’t crochet? I also have free Barbie clothes knitting patterns.
Table of Contents
What you Need
- 3mm crochet hook with 4ply or sport weight yarn, or a 2.5mm hook with dk yarn
- 42m of yarn approx for a full length dress.
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
I used Drops Baby Merino (sport weight) with a 3mm hook for all outfits shown. Colours used: 1 white, 4 yellow, 7 pink, 43 light sea green & 21 black.
Finished dress measurements: 14 cm (5.5 in) long approx (adjustable) & around 5 cm (2 in) across waist (front)
Tension/gauge: since doll’s clothes are so small, the best way to judge the size is to crochet the 1st 5 rounds to make a short top first and try it on the doll.
Abbreviations
NB this pattern uses US crochet terms. The equivalent UK crochet stitches are listed in the abbreviation list to help you convert the pattern.
- R – round
- yoh – yarn over/around hook
- st – stitch(es)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sk – skip (don’t work in stitch)
- sc – single crochet stitch (UK: double crochet)
- sc x N – do a single crochet in the next N stitches (UK: double crochet in next N stitches)
- Xsc – do X single crochet stitches in the next stitch e.g. 3sc means do 3 single crochet in the same stitch (UK: do X double crochet in the same stitch)
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together to decrease by 1 stitch (UK: double crochet 2 together)
I use this invisible decrease method: put your hook into the front loop of the next 2 stitches, yoh and pull through both loops, yoh and pull through the 2 loops on your hook
Chevron Stitch Explained

These clothes are crocheted in the round using a chevron or zig zag stitch pattern.
When you see chevron instructions in crochet pattern notation, it can look a bit scary! It’s much easier when you understand how it works.
To make a zig zag pattern in crochet, you need to make top points (peaks) and bottom points (valleys) at regular intervals.
Skip 2 stitches (decrease by 2) to make each bottom point, and do 3 single crochet in the same stitch to make each top point (increase by 2).
You have standard single crochet stitches in between each top and bottom point to make the sides of the v shapes.
In this pattern you just have 2 single crochet between each point in the top because it is so small. For the skirt you add more single crochet stitches to increase and make the skirt full. By the end, there’s a gap of 6 single crochet stitches between the chevron points.
Crochet chevrons are easy once you get the hang of them, but I find shell stitch quicker and easier. So if you’re having trouble, try my Barbie shell stitch crochet patterns first.

Colour Options
- Use 1 colour throughout for a textured fabric with a zig zag edge to keep things simple.
- Or change colour after every round to create cute colour combos & give Barbie endless different looks.
To switch colour neatly, use the new colour to complete the last single crochet stitch of the round.
So put your hook into the stitch and pull a loop through as usual, but then use the new colour to do the last yarn over and pull the new colour through the 2 loops on your hook.
Then slip stitch as usual in the 1st single crochet stitch of the round with the new colour to finish the round.
TIP: Don’t cut your yarn after switching colour. Just carry it up the back on the inside where nobody will ever see it!

Strapless Chevron Zig Zag Dress & Top Pattern

Crochet in the round from the top down. Stop after 5 rounds for a bandeau or swimsuit top, 9 rounds for a full length tube top or 18+ rounds for a dress. Crochet a whole wardrobe for Barbie in no time!
Top
Ch 29 and sl st to 1st chain to form a ring. The start of the round is at the centre back of the garment.
The top has the zig zag pattern at the front, with straight horizontal stripes across the back.
R1-3: ch 1, sc x 7 across the back,
[2sc, sc x 2, sk 2 (1st peak for sweetheart neckline), sc x 2, 3sc (bottom of zig zag at front), sc x 2, sk 2 (2nd peak for sweetheart neck), sc x 2, 2sc],
sc x 7 across the back. Sl st to 1st sc.
For R4-9 decrease near the start and end of each round to shape the back. The rest of the round stays the same. The full round instructions are shown, but the part within [] is the same for R1-9.
R4: ch 1, sc x 3, sc2tog, sc x 2, [2sc, sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 3sc, sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 2sc], sc x 2, sc2tog, sc x 3, sl st to 1st sc.
R5: ch 1, sc x 6, [2sc, sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 3sc, sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 2sc], sc x 6, sl st to 1st sc.
Fasten off after round 5 for a strapless short top.
R6: ch 1, sc x 2, sc2tog, sc x 2, [2sc, sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 3sc, sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 2sc], sc x 2, sc2tog, sc x 2, sl st to 1st sc.
Fasten off after round 6-7 for a cropped cap sleeve top.
R7: ch 1, sc x 5, [2sc, sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 3sc, sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 2sc], sc x 5, sl st to 1st sc.
R8: ch 1, sc x 2, sc2tog, sc x 2, [2sc, sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 3sc, sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 2sc], sc x 2, sc2tog, sc x 2, sl st to 1st sc.
R9: ch 1, sc x 4, [2sc, sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 3sc, sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 2sc], sc x 4, sl st to 1st sc.
Fasten off after round 9 for a full length strapless top.
Start Skirt
First, add stitches at the back and side to prep for starting the chevron pattern at the back of the skirt. The front instructions in [] are nearly the same as R1-9, except make 3sc at each end instead of 2sc.
R10: ch 1, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc, [3sc, sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 3sc, sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 3sc], sc, 2sc, sc, 2sc, sl st to 1st sc.
From now on, do the chevron zig zag stitch pattern all the way round, starting and ending with 2sc rather than 3sc:
R11-12: ch 1, 2sc, (sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 3sc) x 3, sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 2sc, sl st to 1st sc.
Fasten off after round 12 for a full length cap sleeve top.
Skirt Increases
While full round instructions are shown below, they may look overcomplicated! It’s easier to explain in words:
You work in pairs of rounds from here on:
- Odd rounds: increase by doing 5sc instead of the usual 3sc at the bottom of each chevron, and making 3sc at each end instead of 2sc
- Even rounds: work even, reverting to the usual 3sc at the bottom of each chevron, and 2sc at each end. But there will now be an extra sc between the top and bottom of each chevron. So all the sc x 2 become sc x 3 after the 1st increase, then sc x 4 and so on.
R13 (increase): ch 1, 3sc, (sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 5sc) x 3, sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 3sc, sl st to 1st sc
R14: ch 1, 2sc, (sc x 3, sk 2, sc x 3, 3sc) x 3, sc x 3, sk 2, sc x 3, 2sc, sl st to 1st sc
R15 (increase): ch 1, 3sc, (sc x 3, sk 2, sc x 3, 5sc) x 3, sc x 3, sk 2, sc x 3, 3sc, sl st to 1st sc
R16: ch 1, 2sc, (sc x 4, sk 2, sc x 4, 3sc) x 3, sc x 4, sk 2, sc x 4, 2sc, sl st to 1st sc
R17 (increase): ch 1, 3sc, (sc x 4, sk 2, sc x 4, 5sc) x 3, sc x 4, sk 2, sc x 4, 3sc, sl st to 1st sc
R18: ch 1, 2sc, (sc x 5, sk 2, sc x 5, 3sc) x 3, sc x 5, sk 2, sc x 5, 2sc, sl st to 1st sc
Fasten off after round 18 for a mini dress.
R19 (increase): ch 1, 3sc, (sc x 5, sk 2, sc x 5, 5sc) x 3, sc x 5, sk 2, sc x 5, 3sc, sl st to 1st sc
R20: ch 1, 2sc, (sc x 6, sk 2, sc x 6, 3sc) x 3, sc x 6, sk 2, sc x 6, 2sc, sl st to 1st sc
Fasten off for an above the knee dress.
For a longer dress either:
- Repeat R20 until skirt is long enough
OR - For a fuller skirt, add more pairs of increase rounds following the same format as above.
So you would have sc x 7 gaps in R22, sc x 8 gaps in R24 etc.
Cap Sleeve / Off the Shoulder Top & Dress Pattern

By changing the first few rounds, you an easily crochet a top or dress with a short cap sleeve that can also be worn off the shoulder.
Ch 39 and sl st to 1st chain to form a ring. The start of the round is at the centre back of the garment.
Make 4 chevron points (2 for the sweetheart neckline and 1 for each shoulder), with straight stitches across the back:
R1-3: ch 1, sc x 5 across the back, 2sc, (sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 3sc) x 3, sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 2sc, sc x 5 across the back. Sl st to 1st sc.

Make 2 armholes by skipping 6 stitches at each side:
R4: ch 1, sc x 3, sc2tog, 2sc, sk 6 (armhole 1), 2sc, sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 3sc (centre front),
sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 2sc, sk 6 (armhole 2), 2sc, sc2tog, sc x 3, sl st to 1st sc.
In the next round, you can optionally make single crochet stitches directly into each armhole to cover loose strands at the bottom of the armhole. This makes it easier for small children to pull the top or dress up on the doll without getting the doll’s fingers caught in the armhole.
R5: ch 1, sc x 6, 2sc (optionally in armhole instead of sc), sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 3sc (centre front),
sc x 2, sk 2, sc x 2, 2sc, sc x 6 (optionally putting 1st in armhole instead of 1st sc), sl st to 1st sc.

Now follow the main strapless pattern from round 6 onwards, to finish your top or dress.
Note that for tops and shorter skirts, you need to do slightly more rounds more than the strapless pattern version. For example, fasten off after round 9 for a full length strapless top (tube top), but do 11 rounds for the short sleeve version.

Chevron Skirt Pattern
By starting with a simple single crochet waistband instead, you can reuse the dress pattern to make a separate zig zag skirt.
Ch 24 and sl st to 1st chain to form a ring. The start of the round is at the back of the skirt.
R1-2: ch 1, sc in each stitch and sl st to 1st sc [24 st]
R3 (increase): (sc x 3, 2sc) x 5, sc x 4 [29 st]
Now simply follow the main strapless dress pattern from round 11 onwards to crochet the skirt.

Finishing
Weave in all yarn ends using a tapestry needle. There’s no need to block the clothes.
The ends of the knee length skirt tend to curl up a bit, but I think that adds something extra. If you don’t like the effect, you can wash the dress and lay it to dry to flatten it out.
TIP: The easiest way to dress the doll is to put her feet through the top of the garment and pull it up.
I hope you enjoy crocheting zig zag outfits for Barbie and find my patterns easy to follow.
Got any questions or feedback? Please leave a comment below.
This 11.5 inch doll clothes crochet pattern is for personal, non-commercial use only. It may not be copied, sold, translated or distributed in any way, nor any finished items made using it sold, without permission. While it’s also designed to fit Barbie dolls, it’s not associated with Mattel in any way – I’m just a big Barbie fan. 😊
how can I download the paterns please
Hi Nettie, I’ll be adding a downloadable PDF version soon on Etsy & Ravelry. I like to wait for initial feedback on the free version first in case I need to tweak anything before doing the PDF. Thanks, Janine.